Capers in Italian Food Exploring Flavors and Culinary Uses.

Capers in Italian food are a culinary treasure, offering a burst of briny, tangy flavor that elevates countless dishes. Originating from the caper bush, these unopened flower buds are a staple in the Italian pantry, adding a distinctive punch to sauces, pasta, and various other creations. This exploration delves into the different varieties of capers, their flavor profiles, and the integral role they play in shaping the essence of Italian cuisine.

From the sun-drenched regions of Sicily to the rolling hills of Tuscany, capers find their way into regional specialties, each preparation highlighting the versatility of this small but mighty ingredient. Their umami-rich taste, coupled with their ability to balance richness and acidity, makes them a favorite for enhancing the overall taste experience. This journey will uncover the secrets of selecting, preparing, and pairing capers to unlock their full potential in your own culinary endeavors.

Introduction to Capers in Italian Cuisine

Capers, those tiny, flavorful flower buds, are a cornerstone of Italian cooking, lending a distinct salty, briny, and sometimes lemony tang to a wide array of dishes. Their versatility and ability to enhance both simple and complex preparations have cemented their place as an essential ingredient in the Italian culinary landscape. Originating from the caper bush (Capparis spinosa), a perennial plant native to the Mediterranean region, these buds are carefully hand-picked and then cured, typically in salt, brine, or vinegar, which is what gives them their characteristic flavor profile.

Origin and Varieties of Capers

The caper bush thrives in hot, arid climates, and its cultivation has been practiced for centuries across the Mediterranean, including Italy. The most common varieties of capers used in Italian cooking are distinguished by size and curing method.

• Nonpareil: These are the smallest capers, typically measuring under 7 millimeters in diameter. Their delicate flavor and petite size make them highly prized. They are often cured in salt and are favored for their intense, concentrated flavor.
• Capucines: Slightly larger than nonpareils, capucines are around 7-8 millimeters. They offer a balanced flavor and are often used in a variety of dishes.
• Fines: These capers are larger than capucines. Their flavor is still pronounced but may be slightly less intense than the smaller varieties.
• Grusas: The largest of the caper varieties, grusas can be up to 10 millimeters or more in diameter. They tend to have a bolder flavor.
• Capers in Salt: These are typically smaller varieties, preserved in coarse salt. They require rinsing before use to remove excess salt, but they retain a more intense flavor than capers preserved in brine or vinegar.
• Capers in Brine or Vinegar: These are preserved in a liquid solution of brine or vinegar, which mellows their flavor. They are convenient to use as they do not require rinsing.

The Role of Capers in the Italian Pantry

Capers are a versatile ingredient, offering a burst of flavor that can transform a dish. They are a staple in many Italian kitchens, adding depth and complexity to a wide range of recipes.

• Flavor Enhancement: Capers contribute a unique salty, briny, and sometimes lemony flavor profile that enhances the overall taste of a dish. Their acidity can also help to balance richer flavors.
• Versatility: Capers are used in a vast array of Italian dishes, from pasta sauces and meat preparations to salads and seafood dishes. Their adaptability makes them a valuable addition to any Italian pantry.
• Common Applications:
  • Pasta Dishes: Capers are a key ingredient in puttanesca sauce, and they add a salty kick to other pasta preparations.
  • Meat Dishes: Capers are frequently used in piccata sauces, and they complement chicken, veal, and fish.
  • Salads: Capers add a burst of flavor to salads, especially those featuring tomatoes, olives, and other Mediterranean ingredients.
  • Seafood Dishes: Capers are a natural pairing with seafood, often used in sauces for grilled or pan-fried fish.
• Storage: Capers, particularly those cured in salt, have a long shelf life. They should be stored in a cool, dark place. Once opened, capers in brine or vinegar should be refrigerated.
• Historical Significance: Capers have been a part of Mediterranean cuisine for millennia. Their use in Italian cooking reflects the historical importance of trade routes and the influence of various cultures on Italian culinary traditions. For example, the Romans, who were renowned for their culinary practices, are known to have enjoyed capers, and their use continued throughout the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, solidifying their place in the Italian pantry.

The use of capers in Italian cooking is a testament to the country’s rich culinary heritage and its appreciation for simple ingredients that can create complex and satisfying flavors.

Flavor Profile and Culinary Applications

Capers, those tiny, unopened flower buds, are a cornerstone of Italian cuisine, offering a unique and complex flavor profile. Their distinctive taste and versatility make them a valuable ingredient in a wide array of dishes. This section delves into the specific flavor characteristics of capers, their contribution to umami, and the common ways they are employed to elevate Italian culinary creations.

Distinct Flavor Characteristics of Capers

Capers possess a flavor profile that is both bold and nuanced. The taste is often described as salty, tangy, and slightly lemony, with a hint of floral bitterness. This complexity arises from the way capers are preserved. They are typically brined or pickled, which intensifies their natural flavors and imparts a characteristic sharpness. The size of the caper can also influence the flavor; smaller capers tend to be more delicate, while larger ones have a more pronounced taste.

Capers and Umami Contribution

Capers contribute significantly to the umami taste in dishes. Umami, often described as a savory, brothy flavor, is one of the five basic tastes. It is primarily associated with glutamate, an amino acid. Capers contain glutamates, contributing to the umami sensation. The brining process further enhances the umami characteristics by concentrating the natural glutamates within the caper buds.

This umami element adds depth and complexity to Italian dishes, making them more satisfying and flavorful.

Common Uses of Capers in Italian Dishes

Capers are incredibly versatile and are used in countless Italian dishes. They are frequently incorporated to provide a burst of flavor and a contrasting element to richer ingredients. Here are some of the most common ways capers are utilized:

• Pasta Dishes: Capers are a classic addition to pasta sauces, especially those featuring tomatoes, olives, and garlic. A prime example is Pasta alla Puttanesca, where capers play a key role in the sauce’s distinctive flavor profile. The salty, briny taste of the capers cuts through the richness of the olive oil and anchovies, providing a balanced and flavorful experience.
• Fish and Seafood: Capers pair exceptionally well with fish and seafood. They are often used in sauces for grilled or pan-seared fish, such as cod, salmon, and swordfish. Their tangy flavor complements the delicate taste of the fish, while their texture adds a delightful contrast.
• Meat Dishes: While less common than with fish, capers can also be found in meat dishes. They can be added to sauces for chicken, veal, or pork, providing a bright and zesty counterpoint to the meat’s richness.
• Salads: Capers are a welcome addition to salads, particularly those featuring tomatoes, mozzarella, or other Mediterranean ingredients. They add a salty and tangy element that enhances the overall flavor profile of the salad.
• Sauces and Condiments: Capers are frequently used in the preparation of sauces and condiments. They are a key ingredient in tartar sauce, and they can be added to aioli, tapenade, and other flavorful spreads.

Popular Italian Dishes Featuring Capers

Capers, with their briny and tangy flavor, are a staple in numerous Italian dishes. They provide a distinctive counterpoint to rich sauces and add a burst of flavor to otherwise simple preparations. Their versatility allows them to be incorporated into various culinary creations, enhancing the overall taste and complexity of the food.

Iconic Dishes with Capers

Capers are an essential element in several classic Italian recipes. Their unique flavor profile makes them an integral component, contributing to the dishes’ distinctive taste.

• Pasta alla Puttanesca: This Neapolitan pasta dish prominently features capers alongside tomatoes, olives, garlic, and anchovies.
• Spaghetti with Tuna and Capers: A simple yet flavorful pasta dish where capers complement the richness of tuna.
• Veal Piccata: Thinly sliced veal cutlets are sautéed and served in a lemon-butter sauce enriched with capers.
• Chicken Piccata: Similar to veal piccata, this dish uses chicken breast in a lemon-butter sauce with capers.
• Saltimbocca: Though not always, capers are sometimes included in the preparation of Saltimbocca, a dish of veal wrapped in prosciutto and sage, adding an extra layer of complexity.

Pasta alla Puttanesca Preparation

Pasta alla Puttanesca is a vibrant and flavorful dish, celebrated for its simplicity and bold flavors. The capers play a pivotal role in its distinctive taste profile.The preparation of Pasta alla Puttanesca involves several key steps. First, the sauce is typically made by sautéing garlic in olive oil. Then, tomatoes (canned or fresh, depending on preference) are added and simmered until they begin to break down.

Next, anchovies are incorporated, which melt into the sauce, adding a savory depth. Olives, capers, and often a pinch of red pepper flakes are then stirred in. The capers, in particular, provide a salty and tangy counterpoint to the sweetness of the tomatoes and the richness of the olives and anchovies. The sauce simmers for a while, allowing the flavors to meld.

Finally, the sauce is tossed with cooked spaghetti, and sometimes garnished with fresh parsley. The capers contribute significantly to the overall flavor, providing a burst of acidity and complexity that balances the other ingredients.

Piccata Sauce and Preparation

Piccata sauce is a classic Italian-American preparation known for its bright, lemony flavor and the inclusion of capers. It is typically used to accompany meat or fish, providing a tangy and savory counterpoint to the protein.The preparation of Piccata sauce is relatively straightforward. First, the protein (typically veal or chicken) is lightly floured and sautéed in butter or olive oil until golden brown.

The protein is then removed from the pan, and the pan is deglazed with white wine or chicken broth, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Lemon juice is added, along with capers, and the sauce is simmered briefly to allow the flavors to meld. The capers contribute a briny and slightly acidic flavor that complements the lemon. Butter is often whisked in at the end to enrich the sauce and give it a silky texture.

The cooked protein is then returned to the pan to reheat and absorb the sauce’s flavors before serving.

The use of capers in Piccata sauce is crucial, providing a distinctive flavor and textural element that sets it apart from other sauces.

Caper Selection and Preparation

Choosing and preparing capers correctly is essential for achieving the desired flavor and texture in your Italian dishes. High-quality capers enhance the overall culinary experience, while proper preparation ensures they release their full potential. Understanding the factors involved in selection and preparation will elevate your cooking skills.

Factors in Selecting High-Quality Capers

The quality of capers significantly impacts the final taste of a dish. Several factors should be considered when selecting capers to ensure the best possible flavor and texture.

• Size: Capers are graded by size, with smaller capers generally considered more desirable. Smaller capers, often labeled “nonpareils,” are considered superior because they are less mature and have a more delicate flavor. Larger capers, while still usable, can be more pungent and may have a slightly softer texture.
• Brining/Packing: Capers are typically preserved in either salt, brine, or vinegar. The type of packing affects their flavor profile.
  • Salt-packed capers have a more intense flavor and are often preferred by chefs. They require rinsing to remove excess salt before use.
  • Brine-packed capers have a milder flavor and are ready to use with minimal preparation.
  • Vinegar-packed capers offer a tangy flavor and are a good option for dishes that benefit from acidity.
• Appearance: Look for capers that are firm and intact. Avoid capers that appear mushy, discolored, or have a broken texture. The color should be a vibrant green.
• Origin: Capers from certain regions, such as Pantelleria, Italy, are highly regarded for their superior quality and flavor. The specific terroir influences the final product.
• Aroma: High-quality capers should have a distinct, slightly salty, and briny aroma. Avoid capers that have a stale or off-putting smell.

Preparing Capers for Culinary Use

Proper preparation is crucial to unlock the full potential of capers and integrate them seamlessly into your dishes. The preparation method depends on the type of capers purchased.

• Salt-packed capers:
  1. Rinse the capers thoroughly under cold running water to remove excess salt.
  2. Soak the capers in fresh water for about 15-30 minutes to further reduce the saltiness, if desired. Taste a caper to determine the level of saltiness.
  3. Drain the capers well before using them in your recipe.
• Brine-packed and vinegar-packed capers:
  1. Rinse the capers briefly under cold water to remove any excess brine or vinegar.
  2. Drain the capers well before use.
• Optional steps for all types:
  1. Chop or roughly chop the capers to release their flavor, depending on the recipe.
  2. If a recipe calls for caper juice, reserve the liquid from the capers after rinsing.

Storing Capers to Preserve Flavor and Texture

Proper storage ensures that capers maintain their quality and flavor over time.

• Opened containers:
  1. Salt-packed capers: Store salt-packed capers in an airtight container in the refrigerator. The salt acts as a preservative.
  2. Brine-packed and vinegar-packed capers: Store these in their original brine or vinegar in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
  3. Ensure the capers are submerged in the liquid to prevent them from drying out.
  4. Capers can typically be stored for several months in the refrigerator, but the flavor may gradually diminish over time.
• Unopened containers:
  1. Store unopened containers of capers in a cool, dark place, such as a pantry or cupboard.
  2. Check the expiration date on the packaging.

Pairing Capers with Other Ingredients

Capers, with their distinct briny and tangy flavor, are a versatile ingredient that harmonizes well with a variety of other ingredients commonly used in Italian cuisine. Their ability to cut through richness, enhance savory flavors, and provide a bright counterpoint makes them an excellent choice for creating balanced and flavorful dishes. This section explores how capers interact with other briny and acidic elements, how they complement different pasta types, and provides a table showcasing successful flavor pairings.

Comparison with Briny and Acidic Ingredients, Capers in italian food

Italian cuisine frequently utilizes ingredients that contribute a similar briny or acidic character to dishes as capers. Comparing these ingredients allows for a better understanding of their individual characteristics and how they can be used interchangeably or in combination with capers.

• Olives: Both capers and olives offer a salty and slightly bitter taste. However, olives have a more pronounced fruity or earthy flavor profile depending on the variety. They can be used together, as in puttanesca sauce, where the combination provides a complex depth of flavor.
• Anchovies: Anchovies deliver an intense umami and salty flavor. Capers and anchovies share a complementary role in enhancing savory dishes. A classic example is the use of both in pasta sauces or to flavor meats.
• Vinegar: Vinegar provides acidity and brightness, similar to capers. While capers have their own unique salty and slightly floral notes, vinegar adds a sharper, more acidic element. Vinegar can be used to balance the saltiness of capers in sauces or dressings. For instance, a caper and vinegar vinaigrette can be used to dress salads.
• Lemon Juice: Lemon juice, like vinegar, is a source of acidity. It offers a fresh, citrusy flavor that can brighten dishes. Capers and lemon juice work well together, often in seafood preparations, where the lemon enhances the capers’ briny notes.

Capers and Pasta Pairings

Capers enhance a wide range of pasta dishes. The choice of pasta shape and the accompanying ingredients greatly influence the final flavor profile.

• Spaghetti: Spaghetti pairs well with capers in sauces like puttanesca or with simple combinations of garlic, olive oil, and capers.
• Linguine: Linguine, with its slightly wider shape, is ideal for sauces that cling well. Capers can be incorporated into sauces with seafood or vegetables.
• Penne: Penne’s tubular shape captures sauces effectively. Capers work well in penne dishes with tomato-based sauces, olives, and other Mediterranean flavors.
• Orecchiette: Orecchiette, with its ear-like shape, is great for trapping small ingredients. Capers can be incorporated into dishes with small vegetables, cheeses, and a light sauce.

Successful Flavor Pairings

The following table illustrates some successful flavor pairings with capers.

Ingredient	Flavor Profile	Example Dish	Complementary Ingredients
Seafood	Enhances the fresh, clean flavors of seafood.	Seared Tuna with Caper-Lemon Sauce	Lemon juice, butter, garlic, white wine
Tomatoes	Adds a savory depth and complexity.	Puttanesca Sauce	Olives, anchovies, garlic, chili flakes
Olives	Complements the salty and briny notes.	Pasta with Olives, Capers, and Cherry Tomatoes	Garlic, olive oil, herbs (oregano, basil)
Chicken	Provides a bright contrast to the richness of the chicken.	Chicken Piccata	Lemon juice, butter, white wine, parsley

Regional Variations and Caper Usage

The use of capers in Italian cuisine is not uniform; instead, it reflects the diverse regional culinary traditions of the country. Different areas of Italy incorporate capers in unique ways, influenced by local ingredients, historical factors, and culinary preferences. This section explores how capers are utilized across various Italian regions, with a specific focus on Sicilian and Tuscan cuisines.

Caper Usage Across Italian Regions

Capers play a significant role in many regional Italian dishes, their application varying based on local ingredients and traditions. From the sun-drenched shores of Sicily to the rolling hills of Tuscany, capers contribute a distinct flavor profile.

• Southern Italy: In the south, particularly in regions like Sicily, Calabria, and Campania, capers are a staple. They often feature in dishes with tomatoes, olives, and seafood. Sicilian cuisine, in particular, makes extensive use of capers, often incorporating them into pasta sauces, fish preparations, and vegetable dishes.
• Central Italy: In regions like Tuscany and Lazio, capers are used more moderately, but they still add a key element of flavor to several traditional dishes. They are frequently paired with cured meats, cheeses, and in sauces for game meats.
• Northern Italy: While capers are less prevalent in the north compared to the south, they still find their place. They can be found in certain sauces and dishes, particularly those influenced by Mediterranean flavors.

Capers in Sicilian Cuisine

Sicilian cuisine showcases a particularly strong affinity for capers, reflecting the island’s abundant sunshine and Mediterranean climate, which are ideal for caper cultivation. The island’s culinary heritage is deeply intertwined with the use of capers, where they are used extensively.

• Pasta Dishes: Capers are a key ingredient in many Sicilian pasta dishes. For instance, pasta alla
  -siciliana* often includes capers, along with tomatoes, olives, anchovies, and garlic. The capers add a salty, briny counterpoint to the other ingredients.
• Seafood Preparations: Seafood dishes in Sicily frequently feature capers.
  -Pesce spada alla siciliana* (swordfish Sicilian style) is a prime example, where capers are used in the sauce alongside tomatoes, olives, and oregano to enhance the flavor of the fish.
• Vegetable Dishes: Capers are also used in vegetable preparations. For example, capers can be added to
  -caponata*, a sweet and sour vegetable stew made with eggplant, tomatoes, onions, celery, olives, and vinegar.
• Caper Varieties: The most prized capers in Sicilian cuisine are often those from Pantelleria, a small island off the coast of Sicily. These capers are known for their intense flavor and are often preserved in salt or olive oil.

Capers in Tuscan Cuisine

Tuscan cuisine incorporates capers, although not as prominently as in Sicily, they still play a key role in several traditional dishes, offering a touch of Mediterranean influence to the region’s hearty fare.

• Meat Dishes: Capers are sometimes used in sauces accompanying game meats and other savory meat dishes. The briny flavor of capers cuts through the richness of the meat, providing a balanced flavor profile.
• Sauces and Condiments: Capers may be found in various sauces and condiments, adding complexity and depth of flavor. For example, they can be included in a sauce served with grilled meats or used in a vinaigrette for salads.
• Traditional Recipes: While not a ubiquitous ingredient, capers do appear in certain traditional Tuscan recipes. Their use is often more subtle than in Sicilian cuisine, adding a supporting note of flavor.
• Combination with other ingredients: Capers are frequently combined with other ingredients typical of Tuscan cuisine, such as tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil. The combination of flavors creates a harmonious and satisfying taste experience.

Tips for Cooking with Capers: Capers In Italian Food

Cooking with capers can elevate a dish from ordinary to extraordinary, offering a burst of salty, briny flavor. However, achieving the perfect balance requires understanding their nuances and avoiding common pitfalls. These tips will help you incorporate capers effectively into your Italian culinary creations.

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Common Mistakes to Avoid

Several common errors can detract from the desired effect when using capers. Avoiding these mistakes ensures the capers contribute positively to the overall flavor profile.

• Overusing Capers: Capers have a potent flavor. Adding too many can overpower other ingredients, leading to a dish that is excessively salty and bitter.
• Not Rinsing Capers: Caper brine is intensely salty. Failing to rinse capers before use can make a dish unbearably salty. Rinsing removes excess salt and allows the caper’s other flavors to shine.
• Adding Capers Too Early: Capers can lose their flavor and texture if cooked for too long. Adding them too early in the cooking process can result in a mushy texture and diminished flavor.
• Using the Wrong Type of Caper: The size and preparation of capers can impact the final dish. Using the wrong type can throw off the intended flavor profile. For example, nonpareil capers, being smaller, offer a more delicate flavor compared to larger capers.
• Improper Storage: Storing capers improperly can lead to spoilage or a loss of flavor. Opened capers should be refrigerated and stored in their brine or covered with a fresh brine solution.

Adjusting Caper Amounts Based on Taste Preferences

The amount of capers used should be adjusted to suit individual taste preferences. Some individuals enjoy a strong caper flavor, while others prefer a more subtle hint.

Start with a small amount, taste, and adjust accordingly. A good starting point is often one teaspoon of capers per serving for dishes where capers are a prominent ingredient, such as
-Spaghetti alla Puttanesca*. For dishes where capers play a supporting role, like a sauce for grilled fish, start with a smaller amount, perhaps a half teaspoon per serving.

Remember that the saltiness of capers can vary depending on the brand and preparation. Always taste the capers before adding them to a dish and adjust the amount of salt in the recipe accordingly. Consider the other ingredients in the dish, as well. Ingredients that are naturally salty, such as olives or anchovies, will impact the overall saltiness of the dish, influencing how many capers are needed.

Chef’s Secret Tip

“To unlock the full potential of capers, gently sauté them in olive oil at the end of the cooking process. This intensifies their flavor and creates a delightful, crispy texture that elevates any dish.”

Beyond the Usual

Capers, with their briny and intense flavor, often find themselves as supporting players in Italian cuisine. However, their versatility extends far beyond the familiar pasta sauces and antipasti. Exploring unconventional applications reveals capers’ potential to elevate a wider array of dishes, adding depth and complexity in unexpected ways.

Unconventional Incorporation of Capers in Italian Dishes

The characteristic tang of capers can transform traditional Italian dishes with a surprising twist. Experimentation is key to unlocking their full potential. They can be incorporated into dishes where their acidity and saltiness provide a counterpoint to richness or sweetness.

Caper-Based Sauces for Meat Dishes

Capers are excellent additions to sauces designed to complement various meats. Their flavor profile pairs exceptionally well with both lighter and richer cuts.Here are a few examples:* Veal Piccata with a Caper Twist: Traditionally, veal piccata features a lemon-butter sauce. Capers amplify the citrus notes, providing a more intense and complex flavor.

The classic formula is: veal cutlets, dredged in flour and pan-fried, then finished with a sauce of butter, lemon juice, white wine, and capers.

Pork Medallions with Caper-Mustard Sauce

A creamy mustard sauce benefits from the salty punch of capers. This combination provides a balanced and flavorful accompaniment to the pork.

The sauce might include Dijon mustard, heavy cream, capers, and a touch of white wine vinegar for added brightness.

Chicken with Roasted Red Pepper and Caper Sauce

Roasting red peppers brings out their natural sweetness, which is then balanced by the capers’ sharpness. This creates a vibrant sauce perfect for chicken breasts or thighs.

The sauce typically incorporates roasted red peppers pureed with chicken broth, capers, and a drizzle of olive oil.

Creative Uses of Capers Beyond Pasta and Sauces

Capers can be integrated into various other culinary creations, expanding their use beyond the typical applications.Here are some creative uses:* Caper-Infused Olive Oil: Infusing olive oil with capers creates a flavorful base for salads, drizzling over grilled vegetables, or finishing dishes.

To infuse, simply add capers (drained and dried) to olive oil and let them steep for several days.

Caper and Anchovy Butter

Whipped butter with capers and anchovies adds a salty, savory dimension to bread or grilled fish.

This butter can be spread on crusty bread or used as a finishing touch for various dishes.

Caper Relish for Seafood

A finely chopped caper relish can be served alongside grilled or pan-seared seafood, offering a burst of flavor.

The relish could include capers, red onion, parsley, and a touch of lemon juice.

Capers in Risotto

Capers can be added to risotto during the final stages of cooking, adding a salty bite and complementing the creamy texture.

They pair well with seafood or vegetable risottos.

Caper-Crusted Fish

Crushing capers and mixing them with breadcrumbs creates a flavorful crust for baking or pan-frying fish.

This technique adds texture and flavor to the fish, enhancing its overall appeal.

Caper Vinaigrette for Salads

Capers, finely chopped and combined with olive oil, vinegar, and herbs, make a vibrant vinaigrette.

This vinaigrette can be used on various salads, from simple greens to more complex combinations.

Caper and Lemon Aioli

Adding capers to aioli elevates its flavor profile, creating a zesty dip or spread.

This aioli is excellent with vegetables, sandwiches, or as a dip for seafood.

Last Point

In conclusion, capers in Italian food are more than just a garnish; they are an essential element that defines the character of many beloved dishes. From the iconic Pasta alla Puttanesca to the delicate Piccata sauces, their unique flavor profile transforms simple ingredients into extraordinary meals. Understanding the nuances of caper selection, preparation, and pairing allows any home cook to master the art of incorporating these tiny buds into their culinary repertoire, bringing a taste of Italy to every plate.

Embracing capers means embracing a world of flavor and endless possibilities in the kitchen.